Pearl Morissette ‘Va-et-Vient’ 2023

Pearl Morissette is a whole universe. It's a farm, it's a restaurant that happens to be the best in the country, with two Michelin stars just sitting there like it's no big deal. François Morissette says he "doesn't make wine for Ontario, he makes wine for the world." Sounds a little arrogant, right? Then you taste the wine and think, okay. Fair. Fair enough.

For this vintage of Va-et-Vient, they used Chardonnay. It's made in a very reductive style, which means there isn't much contact with oxygen during winemaking. The wine ends up more flinty, more complex, more fun. It's like a lemon pie rollercoasting down some slopes on a very grippy skateboard. Weird description, I know. But that's what it tastes like to me.