Matthias Hager Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Mollands

Matthias Hager didn’t just inherit 13 hectares of Kamptal vineyard; he inherited an entire ecosystem. Taking the reins young, this plant-whispering, bug-respecting visionary decided the family business wouldn’t just make wine—it would conduct a symphony of soil, vine, and wild things, all played according to the strict, stellar rhythms of Demeter biodynamics.

The stage is a geologic playground: loess so soft it feels like ancient dust, clay that grips like a fist, and primary rock (gneiss, mica schist) that cracks with primordial energy. This is the northern Kamptal, where Matthias’s experimental spirit meets a vast, quiet knowledge of how to make these stones sing.

This Grüner unfolds in the glass like a slow-motion revelation: gingered peach and lightly toasty lees give way to a core of crisp green apple and raw almond dust. The palate is a glide of crystalline fruit that tightens into a profound, saline snap, a finish so long and stony you can almost taste the ancient seabed it sprung from.

This isn’t just wine; it’s a biodynamic translation of place.

Pair it with a hefty Wiener Schnitzel, roast pork with crackling, or the profound satisfaction of finding a wine that’s as intellectually thrilling as it is effortlessly drinkable.