Luís Pato Maria Gomes Brut

Luís Pato is one of Portugal's most esteemed winemakers. He carries on generations of tradition in Bairrada, working from his home at Quinta do Ribeirinho. He's best known for Baga, the native grape he helped put on the map as one of Portugal's great varietals. But this isn't Baga. This is Maria Gomes from vines across the property. The wine is made in the traditional method. Initial fermentation in stainless steel, then a second fermentation in bottle. Three months ageing on the lees before disgorgement. That's not very long by Champagne standards, but it's not meant to be. This is fresh, easy, and meant for drinking now.

The nose is lovely, sweet floral fruits, a little toasty, a little biscuity. Dry on the palate but not too brut. Packed with apple, fresh lemon squeeze, white plum, white flowers. It's not complicated. It doesn't need to be. It's just a really good sparkling wine from someone who knows what he's doing.

Drink it with oysters, with fried things, with nothing at all. It's not picky.