Fumey Chatelain Arbois Chardonnay 2023

In 2019, I went to the Jura and stumbled into Fumey-Chatelain while visiting Montigny-lès-Arsures, near Arbois. I left completely mesmerized. I tasted with Adéline right on a stone-carved lagar that was used in the past to stomp grapes by foot. Among the bottles, they'd placed rocks from their vineyards, and you could see the marine fossils pressed into them.

Raphael and Adéline's son, Marin, joined them in 2017 after working around the world. Since then, the entire domaine has been in conversion to organics and has since implemented biodynamic practices too. In the cellar, Marin takes a hands-off approach: native yeasts, no fining, no filtration. 

This Chardonnay is grown on clay-limestone soil, fermented and aged in barrels for 18 months. Crisp pear, green apple, lemon peel, wet stones, crushed seashell, and a touch of hazelnut. No heavy oak, just a really nice leesy character. Mineral, chalky, sky-rocketing silky texture and a very good acidity. 

Drink it with grilled fish, or roast chicken. Don't forget to eat your greens.