Folias de Baco Uivo Vinhas Velhas Tinto 2020

Tiago Sampaio took over his grandparents' vineyards in 2007 and has progressively become one of Portugal's most sought after natural wine producers.

This red comes from an 80-year-old vineyard where more than ten local varieties grow together. They're co-planted, co-harvested, and co-vinified because that's how it's always been done. The grapes get foot-stomped in old lagares, then the wine ages for three years in various old barrels. The vineyards are in Cima Corgo, the cooler part of the Douro. Steep schist slopes, continental climate. That means fresher, crispier wines than your average Douro red. Less jam, more nerve.

Dark berries. A little brambly, a little dusty, with this cool graphite minerality. Pour it with an ossobuco ragu, something slow and rich that needs a wine with backbone. Or a gorgeous chili you make the short way because who has all day.