COS 'Ramí' Terre Siciliane 2024

COS is basically the reason people stopped sleeping on Sicilian wine. Three friends started it in 1980, and Giusto Occhipinti (yes, Arianna's uncle) has been the force behind it ever since. Organic from day one, biodynamic since 2000, and completely obsessed with aging in amphorae.

Rami is their blend of Grecanico and Inzolia, two local white grapes that most of the world politely ignores. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete on the skins. Seven to ten days of maceration, then eight months in concrete vats, three months in bottle. That's it.

The wine is a beautiful gold. Dusty flowers, candied orange peel, a little honey, a little sage and rosemary. There's ginger in there, and a flinty minerality that comes straight from the decomposed seabed soils of Vittoria. The palate is soft and supple like a pillow, with brisk acidity, a lovely savoury spice kick, and a hint of apricot and bitter almond on the finish.

Drink it with grilled fish, roasted chicken, a plate of salty cheese and olives.