Bodegas Ponce Albilla Manchuela 2024

Juan Antonio Ponce enrolled in viticulture school at 14. After school, he went to work for Telmo Rodríguez, making wine all over Spain, soaking up everything he could. Then in 2005, at 23 years old, he came home to Manchuela and started his own thing with his father. Some family land, a lot of ambition, and a whole lot of Bobal.

But this isn't about Bobal. This is about Albilla. The 2024 vintage was warm and dry, so they picked early to keep the alcohol at 12.3 per cent. The fruit comes from different vineyards, different ages, but mostly calcareous clay soils at high elevation. 

They fermented it in small vats inside a cold chamber, then aged it eight months in 600-litre barrels and 1000-litre foudres. Mostly no malolactic, to keep that vibrant, saline thing happening. Some barrels might go through partial malo anyway, because wine does what it wants. The oak is there but it's not showing off. 

This a super mineral bomb, with gorgeous volume and texture from the lees. Sapid, saline, incredibly good for the price. It ages well too, if you have the patience.

If Chablis existed in Spain, it might taste something like this. Just a thought.