Pearl Morissette 'Furie' Cabernet Franc 2023

Pearl Morissette's winery houses the number one restaurant in the country. Two Michelin stars. They've built a whole universe around the idea that Canadian wine can be world-class. François Morissette says he "doesn't make wine for Ontario, he makes wine for the world." It sounds a little arrogant. Then you taste his wines and realize: okay, fair.

Cabernet Franc has this thing called pyrazines. It smells like a green pepper that's been on the grill, getting all toasty and charred. Sometimes that can be overwhelming. But when it's good, like it is here, it's really nice. 

Pearl Morissette grows these grapes on their own farm, in soil so full of iron it practically looks red. They destemmed everything, put it in concrete, and let it sit for 34 days. Then into big old barrels until they bottled it this past May. No fining, no filtering.

The wine is savoury and kind of toasty, with bright acidity that keeps it from feeling too heavy. If you put it in the fridge for twenty minutes before opening, it becomes this relaxed, easy-drinking Cabernet Franc. Perfect with sausages and rapini, or a nice steak, or honestly just by itself while you're standing in the kitchen pretending you're about to cook.There's also an almost balsamic thing, a little tomato leaf, some dark fruit and graphite hanging underneath.