Mary Taylor Rosso di Valtellina 2021

Valtellina is one of those places that feels like a secret. Tucked along the Swiss border in Lombardy, it runs east-west following the Adda river toward Lake Como. The vineyards climb steep terraces held up by stone walls built centuries ago, and the Alps loom close enough to keep everything cool. This is Nebbiolo country, but not the big, tannic Nebbiolo of Piedmont. Here they call it Chiavennasca, and it grows lighter, more perfumed, softer on its feet.

The Triacca estate has been here since 1897, on land that used to be a Dominican monastery. Five generations in, they farm sustainably and let the terroir speak. This Rosso di Valtellina comes from their Valgella vineyards, 30-year-old vines on sandy clay. The 2021 vintage was a good one, a bright summer and cool September days that preserved all the elegance.

The wine spent 12 months in Slovenian oak, then another six in bottle before release. Fresh and vibrant, all small red berries and delicate florals. It's Nebbiolo with a mountain personality, lighter and more graceful than its southern cousins, but with that same nice  structure.

Drink it with anything from cured meats to mushroom risotto to a plate of alpine cheese.