Luis Pato Vinha Pan Bruto 2022

Luis Pato is probably the best-known producer in Bairrada. For a long time, people called him a modernizer, the guy who dragged a struggling region back to life. But that's not quite right. His wines have a traditional side too. He's a champion of Baga, the local red grape that everyone else gave up on. When the regulations changed and growers could use other varieties, Pato stayed put. He became a neo-traditionalist, which is a fancy way of saying he knows what he likes and doesn't care what anyone else thinks.

Baga has a reputation for making stern reds, unapproachable in their youth. But it also makes sparkling whites. This one is harvested early from a single plot. Pressed into stainless steel, fermented, then bottled for a second fermentation. It rests on its fine lees for four years before disgorgement. No dosage. No added sulfur.

The wine is gorgeous. Golden with a subtle pink hue. It smells like citrus and freshly baked brioche. A lemon dream, honey, hazelnut, crisp green apple. Precisely balanced acidity. Beautiful limestone minerality. Pair it with roast suckling pig (the regional specialty) or tempura fried vegetables. Or just drink it because you're curious. That's what it's there for.