Cantine Olivella 'Katà' Catalanesca del Monte Somma 2024

Andrea Cozzolino started this project in 2004, bringing his family's historic vineyards in the Vesuvio National Park back to life. Small plots scattered across the wild landscape, from 900 to nearly 2,400 feet in altitude. The vines are ungrafted, propagated by layering, an ancient technique where a cane is buried in the soil until it roots and becomes its own plant. Organic viticulture, everything by hand.

This is Catalanesca, a rare white grape said to have been brought to Naples from Spain in the 14th century by Alfonso I of Aragón. It basically only grows here, on these volcanic slopes. Cantine Olivella is one of the only estates in Italy that bottles it on its own. Katà is the local nickname.

This is pretty much a medium-bodied ray of sunshine. Rich yellow and white fruits, with this smoky, steely freshness that only comes from lava-rich, sandy soils. Bright, mineral, that special volcanic grip. Drink it with seafood and/or fried things. Anything fried, honestly.